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european death knot failure

flat overhand bend

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figure 8 bend strength

figure 8 bend

Start by tying a loose Figure 8 knot in one of the ropes. Follow the same Final Dressing: To ensure that the knot is tied correctly, it is sensible to tie it in the "Flat" form shown. However, for Pros and Cons: The advantage of Figure 8 Bend is that even after considerable strain it remains relatively easy to undo. Inspection:
Flat Overhand Bend Tying. Use enough rope to allow for the long tail ends. Use both ends together to form a loop. Pass the two ends through the loop.
28 Oct 2016 The best data we have on the failure strengths of the EDK vs the flat figure eight come from a series of tests performed by Thomas Moyer in 1999. He also provides links to a few other organizations which have run similar tests. In all fairness, Moyer's opinion is that there are better knots than the EDK.
23 Apr 2015
27 Sep 2016 flat overhand (aka EDK) flat figure eight (you call it the figure of eight bend). and two retraced knots: water knot (could be called a retraced overhand) retraced figure of eight (flemish bend). “flat” indicates the tails are next to each other whereas retraced indicates they're going opposite directions. Thinking of
while abroad i climbed with a few korean climbers who insisted that tying a figure eight follow through knot was the safest and least cumbersome of knots The flat-eight also starts flipping at a lower load (750 lbs vs 1400 lbs for well-tied, 110 lbs vs 200 lbs for badly tied) than the overhand, and it eats two to
16 Nov 2012
Figure 8 Follow Through Tying. Start by tying a loose Figure 8 knot. Pass the tail around the attachment point. Follow the original Figure 8 around the entire knot in reverse. Exit beside the standing end to complete a two stranded Figure 8 knot.

7 Dec 2016 I talked to an Austrian guide who clarified the situation nicely, as well as explained the fatal accident involving the flat overhand knot. The bad news, is that the knot (which Flat figure eight: This knot has been confused with the flat overhand an has caused accidents. Examples of situations where the flat